Vetiver.

In the modern era of ‘fresh’, ‘aquatic’ colognes (think Acqua di Gio), this classic cologne scent has been almost passed by. That’s really a shame. The folks who wear colognes only because they’re trendy miss out on a treat by overlooking vetiver-bases scents.

What is vetiver? Glad you asked. Vetiver is a form of grass, related to sorghum. It is native to India but these days grown largely in Haiti.

And its roots contain an essential oil that smells terrific.

The vetiver cologne I favor hails from the House of Guerlain. It’s celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. During the warm weather, it’s a staple of mine.

Because what could be nicer than the scent of sweet grass when the weather is warm?

The main reason I write this post is to give you a heads up. The off-price department stores: Marshalls, TJMaxx and Ross have gotten a supply of this juice in stock over the past couple months. Word is out on the fragrance message boards, but if you look carefully you might be able to score a big bottle of the green Guerlain for under thirty bucks American. That’s more than half off, kids.

Grab some while the heat is on.

Not that you can’t wear it year round. I do.

The day has arrived. Aqua Velva is now being distributed in ‘shatterproof’, i.e. plastic bottles.

There are still some classic glass bottles around, but once they’re sold, another chapter in wet shaving will close. Go out there and find some now.

Or give it a few months, and I might start listing the stray bottle on the Bay.

Aqua Velva will no longer be sold in glass bottles.

To some, that statement might provoke no more than a disinterested shrug, maybe a “meh”.

To others, it signifies the curtain slamming down on generations of wetshaving goodness.

Aqua Velva.

Pressure from retailers looking to protect their margins finally has caused its manufacturer, Combe, to give in. All future Velva will be shipped in plastic containers. While Combe swears the formulation won’t change, this is almost impossible. Tweaks there will be to keep the stuff from ‘turning’ in plastic bottles.

On the AV front, word also is out that Combe is in play. If the company, and its products like AV and Williams Mug Shaving Soap are bought out, you can bet changes will be afoot in these products.

Remember Old Spice? It never smelled the same after Procter and Gamble bought the brand and saved a few cents a bottle by changing the formulation.

By the way, don’t bother looking for glass bottles of Aqua Velva in the eastern Sacramento suburbs. I already bought them all.

Ah, crap.

Habit Rouge Sport, aka Whore of Babylon pour Homme.

Now, I love Habit Rouge. It’s a venerable cologne, debuted in 1965. It’s been tweaked some over the years; the European Union has forced reformulations of many fragrances with the new rules they’ve put in place concerning ingredients.

Can’t be helped. You gotta dance to the government’s tune.

But I just don’t believe old Jean-Paul Guerlain would have done a ‘sport’ version of Habit Rouge.

Business is business, people gotta make a buck. The Guerlains sold their company to LVMH (Moet Hennessy Louis Vitton) some years ago. Now the house name is just another brand in the stable. C’est la vie, non? At least they’re in good company. Givenchy, Kenzo and Acqua di Parma are stablemates.

So, now we have a ‘Sport’ version of Habit Rouge.

There is some discussion on basenotes centered on: Why doesn’t Guerlain have the right to make a buck? Maybe guys will be introduced to Guerlain by a ‘sport’ cologne who never would have heard of the house otherwise.

It just feels wrong.

Adidas Sport, Hugo Boss Sport… go to town. Habit Rouge was, I thought, above that.

Now it seems like Guerlain (LVMH) has pimped out the name. The once grande dame is out walking the stroll next to the crack whores.

Making a buck
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At least until you read this list of what you should be wearing instead.

(note: These opinions are strictly my own and reflect no commercial interest or claim of expertise. Except that I know more about this stuff than whomever gave you the AdG.)

These are in no particular order.

Carlos Santana for Men.

Carlos Santana for Men. We’ll start with this because it has a nice cinnamon-apple smell that’s Christmasy. This is the only ‘celebrity’ fragrance on our list. It’s warm. Makes you want to go check out white girls at the strip club and spend all the money you were supposed to send back to Mexico.

Azzaro pour Homme.

Azzaro pour Homme. This stuff has been around since the 70′s. It’s a timeless classic. Still one of the best colognes around. It’s a ‘fougere’ which means it’s based on tree moss. Don’t let that put you off. This stuff smells great. A favorite of mine. Makes you feel like the mob boss who owns the disco Tony Manero goes to in Saturday Night Fever.

Escada pour Homme.

Another 70′s classic. Makes you feel like Tony Manero. This one’s been discontinued but you can still find it at the off-price places like Marshall’s or Ross. I stocked up when my local TJ Maxx blew them out because they had battered boxes. Got enough to last for years, dirt cheap.

By the way, ‘pour homme’ just means ‘for men’ in French. You probably know that but just in case you don’t, relax.

Grey Flannel.

Grey Flannel. Another cologne that can be picked up cheap and yet another 70′s classic. It would seem the 70′s were a high-water mark for cologne. Might have had something to do with disco and all those open shirts, I dunno. GF is the counter to Azzaro and Escada. While the Brooklyn kids and mobsters were whooping it up, this is the stuff guys in Westchester wore to their proms. This juice is strong and very floral (violets, to be precise) so use sparingly.

Habit Rouge.

Habit Rouge. Now we’re getting grown-up. The name refers to the red coats worn by European huntsmen on horseback if that gives you any idea. A kind of sweet, woody scent. Reformulated to be less sweet a few years back. You can still get the old stuff in the more square bottle online. That’s what I bought, because I’m kind of a snob like that.

Terre d'Hermes

Terre d’Hermes. A personal favorite. The scent has been described as ‘an orange rotting on a park bench in summer’ by a non-fan. It is citrus, with kind of a dirty, earthy undertone. Makes me feel like I’ve been picking oranges in Portugal all day. You’d want to try this one before you buy, see if it’s for you. Check it out at Nordstrom. The woman at the counter will try to push some Acqua di Gio on you. Stay strong. Don’t do it.

Guerlain Vetiver.

Guerlain Vetiver. Another entry from the House of Guerlain, makers of Habit Rouge. I’m wearing this right now. Vetiver is a fragrant grass native to India. Most of it is grown in Haiti now. Exotic, no? It does have a grassy smell to me, though some describe it as ‘woody’. Another that’s not for everyone. Reminds me of working in my grandpa’s hay fields as a teenager, but I don’t have to smell the unwashed alcoholic hired hand next to me on the trailer.

Green Irish Tweed.

Green Irish Tweed. From the ‘niche’ (meaning you won’t find this stuff at Marshall’s or even Macy’s) House of Creed. The darling of fragrance snobs everywhere. What you wear when you’ve graduated from Cool Water. There is something in the middle of the note progression in this that I find faintly unpleasant. The base, however, is sublime.

This juice is the single most counterfeited cologne in the world. As such, you don’t want to buy it on Ebay unless you really know what you’re doing. Neiman Marcus is the only U.S. store you can get this in, as far as I know. Costco is carrying some Creed scents on their website, but not this one.

Bois du Portugal.

Bois du Portugal. Our second entry from Creed, and my favorite of their scents. ‘Bois’ means ‘wood’. Fragrant wood is, I guess, the best description I can think of. This is the stuff those guys in the Men’s Club in the movie Trading Places must be wearing. Whenever I put it on, I get a Wayne’s World flash: I’m not worthy! I’m not worthy! Then I put it on anyway. So expensive, I can only afford it by the decant.

Bulgari Black.

Bulgari Black. Here’s another terrific cologne you can get cheap at Marshall’s. The company likes to spell its name ‘Bvlgari’ to look more Roman or classy or something. I don’t mind, but I never know how I’m supposed to spell it.  I love this stuff because of its schizoid nature. It’s too feminine for men. It’s too masculine for women. It’s smoky. It’s sweet.

Its main scent is described as ‘burning rubber’ (hence the bottle looks like a tire), yet it drys down kind of sweet, like vanilla. It’s sort of like roasting marshmallows over a tire fire.

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So, there we have it. You don’t want that Acqua di Gio, trust me. It’s not that it’s bad. It’s just blah. Millions of other mall denizens are wearing it. They pimped it so hard on TV this Christmas just watching all those commercials made me feel dirty.

Take it back, and get something with soul. Something you. Something that gives you a feeling.

Like maybe, something from this list.

When I was a kid, I used to like the commercial for Norelco featuring Santa riding one of their razors down a slope as though it were a sled. The brand name at the end would morph into the spelling “Noel co”. Fun.

This year, we have the Braun Series 7 with ‘pulse-a-riffic’ technology. This thing sends out some kind of pulse that makes the skin ripple, thus providing a closer shave. Somehow.

I checked this little number out on Amazon. While it lists for $269.95, you can get it now for a mere $225, though that price is so low they aren’t allowed to show it unless you click a special link.

Two Hundred Twenty-Five Dollars for an electric shaver. Just wow.

Ladies, Wet Shavers Blog would like to provide you a service if shaving is your goal for your man’s gift this year.

On the right sidebar, you’ll see selections pulled out of Amazon and gathered in one handy stop, all related to old-style wet shaving.

Nip in there and pick out:

• Razor. I’d go Merkur brand. The HD (Heavy Duty) is probably the best choice for a beginner.
• Blades. The razor will likely come with a couple of Merkur blades. Grab another pack just in case.
• Brush. Go wild here. A wet shaver’s first brush is a starting point. You needn’t put too much thought into this. Somewhere between $50 and $100 would secure a high-quality shaving brush that will last a lifetime.
• Cream or soap. For the $225 that Braun is going for, we have enough room left in our budget for a top-shelf shaving cream. Check out the George F Trumper’s or Taylor of Old Bond Street classic English shaving creams and see what scent you’d like, or think he’d like. These are among the finest shaving creams in the world.

If you like, grab some cologne or maybe a nice thick stoneware bowl or mug that he can make lather in. The bullet points alone will get enough gear to allow your man to have a shave Christmas morning; and start him down the path to a lifetime of enjoyment.

I’m sure ‘sonic-pulsing-gizmonics’ electric shavers are nifty items. I’m not sure guys love them the way they do wet shaving.

Take a chance and be a little different this year. I’m virtually certain you and he will be glad you did.

"Mmmmm, nice shave."

I’ve mentioned that lots of guys get into wet shaving initially because they’re sick of paying through the nose for overpriced cartridge blade shaving systems, a la the Gillette Fusion.

Yeah, you come for the money savings. Then, you get used to the sheer pleasure of warm lather being worked into your face with a soft, silvertip badger shave brush. Before you know it, you’ve got Wet Shaving Acquisition Disorder and you’re all over the Net bidding on Fat Boy adjustable Super Speeds, looking at the fine English soaps and creams, checking out the Rooney and Vulfix brushes, ordering blades by the gross and wondering how you’re going to explain all this stuff coming into the house to your wife.

Been there. It happens to us all.

Wet shaving is such a pleasurable hobby, it’s hard not to go a little overboard when you get into it. Yes, I said hobby. It’s strange how a routine that used to be a dreaded chore becomes an anticipated ritual. You put a lot of thought, time, and money into it. Shaving becomes a hobby.

That’s because it feels so damn good.

So good, that I’ve seen more than one stogie-chomping, Marine Corps serving, muscle car-driving, deer hunting, bar brawling tough guy turn into a Nancy Boy-shopping metro after taking up wet shaving. OK, maybe I exaggerate a bit. But not by much. Pampering oneself a bit is enjoyable. Nothing wrong with it.

You start taking better care of your skin and grooming overall. Maybe you invest in some real bathing soap when you learn that deodorant bar you’ve been using for years isn’t really soap at all, it’s detergent. You might get serious about losing some weight (happened to me) and keeping your hair a little better barbered than you used to. You invest in some nice cologne or aftershave and finally put on those clothes she bought for you that you wouldn’t have been caught dead in.

Next thing you know, your partner gets that gleam in her eye again when she looks at you and you’re getting some of the best sexing up you’ve had since you started dating.

All because you got fed up with paying Gillette too much money for a shave you hated doing anyway.

Yes, yes. Come for the savings. Stay because it feels good.

Photo credit: Mark J. Sebastian

One of the oldest and most natural shaving or skin products around is the humble alum block.

First used by the Egyptians, alum acts as an astringent (closing the pores and tightening the skin, much like witch hazel) and is a great antibacterial agent.

Rubbed over a wet, freshly-shaven face, the alum block makes a wonderful after shave. You get the same tingle you would from an alcohol-based after shave. You also get the same sting from nicks or irritated areas, so you’ll know how well your technique is progressing. The plus side is, the alum will tend to close up the smaller nicks, stopping bleeding.

Alum’s antibacterial properties mean it can be used as a natural deodorant. In fact, it’s believed that’s how it was first used. You’ll see alum deodorant marketed as ‘Crystal’ something or other. Because it’s pretty drying, commercial alum deodorant often has some aloe mixed in. Simply wet the block and rub briskly over your wet armpit. You will get great odor protection and it won’t stain clothes.

Alum shaving blocks can be found in Indian shops where it’s called ‘phatkari’. Due to Americans getting hip to a thousands-of-years-old practice, you can find ‘crystal’ alum deodorants lots of places, even Wal Mart. It will last you a long time; and you can help save the planet by cutting down on the packaging you won’t be throwing away, or aerosols you won’t be releasing into the atmosphere.

Alum is available in two main forms: potassium alum (or potash alum) and ammonium alum. As best I can make out, the potash alum is naturally occurring and the ammonium is grown or manufactured. They have different molecular structures, but both do the same thing as far as use on skin goes.

There is some concern out there that the ammonium alum might not be as safe as potassium alum due to fears of aluminum causing Alzheimer’s disease. Frankly I have no worries in this regard-using my standard measurement of danger, driving a car is a helluva lot more likely to kill me. But if you want to feel safer, go with the natural potash or potassium alum. This is what you’ll get at the Indian bazaars.

Whichever form you get, your face will thank you for a good rubbing with a block. And your coworkers will thank you for giving your pits a brisk once-over with it.

There is a new kid in decant-town. His name is Chuck. I’ve purchased samples twice from him before he set up an official selling space and he has been great to work with both times.

Check out his store. Have a look at what he’s offering, drop him an email. These are great prices for ml decants of quality juice.

Readers outside the US will have to check with him on shipping details. Shipping products containing alcohol across borders can be difficult at best.

There’s nothing like the feeling you get when wearing a well-made cologne. It’s a chance to transcend who you are today and feel like Cary Grant or Errol Flynn (two of the people the cologne house Creed made special scents for).

Cologne, as opposed to after shave, goes through distinct changes during the time you’re wearing it. The different scents you get over time are known as ‘notes’. Cologne will usually go through three distinct changes as it ‘drys down’: The Top note, the Heart (or middle), and the Base note.

The dry down can take longer than an hour. This is one of the reasons why you should never select a cologne based on how it smells on a strip of paper or just after it’s been sprayed on your skin. You have to give it time to develop and show how it combines with your skin chemistry. It’s really a good idea to sample a cologne a few times over a few days to get an idea of how it wears for you.

Of course, good cologne doesn’t come cheap. If you don’t have a large selection of department stores in your area, there are still ways to sample colognes via the Internet so you don’t have to ‘buy blind’.

Cologne or perfume ‘decanters’ are out there who will sell you small quantities of ‘juice’. This is a great way to get in a few wearings before you decide to spring for the entire bottle.

You can find sellers on the scent forum Basenotes (see the blogroll at left for a link) or, there’s a site devoted to selling decants called The Perfumed Court.

Test a variety of samples from these good people; you might get some pleasant surprises.

No go out there and get smelling good.

Dunhill Cologne by Alfred Dunhill Eau De Cologne Spray 3.4 Oz

is a wonder substance and any wet shaver should give it serious consideration as one of the weapons in his shaving arsenal.

A North American plant, the witch hazel shrub was used for its medicinal purposes by Native Americans long before European settlers graced the shores.

The liquid, extracted from the plant either by distillation or pressing, is wonderful for the skin. Used after shaving, it tones, mildly disinfects, and soothes any burn you might have suffered. It’s also an astringent meaning it closes the pores so it’s great for shavers who suffer from acne.

Many wet shavers use it as their only after shave, others splash some on as a base before applying after shave and/or balm.

The cheap stuff you can get at the drugstore is OK, though it’s long on water and alcohol and short on witch hazel itself.

Thayers Original Witch Hazel Toner with Aloe, a true friend to your skin.

I prefer Thayers brand myself; it’s all natural and can be found in a variety of different styles. Though I prefer the unscented/non-alcohol type, lots of wet shavers like their Witch Hazel Aftershave that does contain enough alcohol to give them that cooling, stinging rush.

They also make it in a variety of scents including a wet shaving classic from the olde English days, lavender. You can pick this up in health food stores or any large supermarket’s ‘organic’ or ‘natural’ section. Whole Foods carries several varieties.

Even if you never plan to wet shave, pick up some good witch hazel to freshen and tone your skin and help heal minor cuts and scrapes. You’ll see that Grandma had good reason to keep it in her cabinet.

Bay Lime Shaving Cream

Guys who don’t mind spending $400 for a top-grade silvertip badger brush sing the praises of Aqua Velva. Others will defend Old Spice to the last gasp; still others extol the virtues of Skin Bracer or Clubman Pinaud.

Now, I’m not a snob.

Alright, I am.

After going to the trouble to prepare my beard, decide what soap or cream will be lathered today, using my ‘finest’ grade brush to whip it up and carefully executing a three-pass shave, I want something a little more high-toned.

My personal preference is Thayers Original Toner Witch Hazel as a splash; then some cologne for scent. I’m not into the sting of alcohol on my freshly-shaved puss. My skin doesn’t seem the worse for lack of it.

I feel the draw of Aqua Velva. My Dad was an Old Spice man and I looked forward to the day I could truly shave (as opposed to playing with foam and an empty razor) and splash some on. It didn’t smell right on me and I went to Aqua Velva; later Jovan Musk to better slay the high school girls.

Favorite of Champions

But when I stand in front of that ice-blue bottle at Wal Mart…. I just can’t do it. I don’t want that scent interfering with my Terre d’ Hermes or Bvlgari Black.

I admire lots of wet shavers who love it, though. It has glycerin which is good for the skin. If you’re hard up for a buzz, you can drink the stuff. Troops in World War II did.

One of these days I’m going to have to break down and go for the Ice. Maybe over ice.

Bay Lime Shaving Cream