Seven Things to Consider When Choosing a Shaving Brush

Probably the most difficult and confusing aspect of wet shaving is picking a shaving brush. Let’s take a look at some of the aspects to consider when deciding on a brush.

1. Type of bristle.

Shaving brushes come in three main types of bristles: boar, badger, and synthetic (usually nylon).

Boar hair brushes are an inexpensive entry point. The hair is fairly hard and stiff. It’s usually white or pale yellow. Sometimes it will have a black band dyed around the outside of the bristle pack at about the center of the hairs to make it look like badger hair. Boar hair brushes work well with soaps as their stiffness allows them to dig into a puck of soap. The low-priced models are often badly made and will degrade relatively quickly. They feel scratchy on the face; if you don’t mind that you’ll get great exfoliation using these.

Badger hair brushes are at the high end of the quality and price scale. They are by far the most common type on the market. The hair is softer than boar; quality badger brushes feel soft and luxurious on the face. Badger hair also holds much more water than boar hair, making the lathering process quicker.
Badger hair brushes come in three grades of quality which we’ll get into further down the list.

A more recent entry into the shaving brush market is the synthetic brush. These bristles are usually made of nylon. They combine the stiffness of boar hair brushes with the water retention of badger brushes. They are great for shavers who may be sensitive to the harvesting of animals. Technology of synthetic brushes is progressing rapidly and synthetics are being offered by the top companies in shaving products.

I say three ‘main’ types of bristle; there is also a company in Spain offering horsehair shaving brushes.

2. Grade of badger hair.

Badger hair brushes are sorted into three grades. The low end is known as ‘pure’. They are made to an inexpensive price point and tend to feel more scratchy than higher grades as they are trimmed into shape. They are usually packed less densely than higher grades and hold less water.

The midrange badger brushes are called ‘best’ or ‘super’ depending on the brand. These are the ‘workhorses’ of shaving brushes. The hair is untrimmed so they feel softer on the face. They are somewhat stiffer than pure brushes and work well with soaps. Due to their denser pack compared to the pure grade they hold more water and heat.

The luxury badger brushes are called ‘finest’ or more commonly ‘silvertip’. Silvertip brushes are what lesser grades are dyed to look like. They are naturally light at the tips, the hair coming from the soft area of the pelt at the badger’s neck. This also gives them their legendary softness. These brushes will have the highest bristle density, holding an incredible amount of water. Expect to spend well over one hundred dollars on a true silvertip brush.

3. Knot size.

The diameter of the bloom of the brush is a factor of the size of the knot hidden in the handle. Knot size ranges from about 17 millimeters at the small end to 30 or more millimeters at the large. Shavers with larger and smaller faces are served by the range; also some guys like a larger bloom than others.

4. Bristle loft.

The length of the bristle extending above the handle is known as the ‘loft’. Higher loft brushes are ‘floppier’ than shorter ones. As a result, you will often see cream users who make lather in a bowl or mug choosing high loft brushes while soap users who face lather will go with a shorter loft.

5. Bloom shape.

Badger brushes tend to fall into two shapes of the ‘bloom’ of hair: fan or bulb shaped. Frankly, I don’t even have a preference here. My main daily brush is bulb shaped, but my first brush had more of a fan look and I like them both. However, there are camps on both sides of this issue with varying opinion on which is better.

6. Handle style.

The feel of the shaving brush in one’s hand is a very personal choice. Some men like to hold the brush in a fist, others prefer to pinch the handle between fingertips, still others place their fingertips at the base of the bristles keeping the end of the handle in the palm. Thus, shaving brushes come with a wide variety of handle styles. This is an easily overlooked aspect of choosing a first brush. You should take some time to get a feel for how you might hold your brush and experiment with various handles before putting your money down.

7. Price.

While you might lust for the opulent luxury of a dense, soft, floppy silvertip shaving brush, your partner might object to such extravagance and frankly, the midrange ‘best’ or ‘super’ brushes do a great job. At the higher end you start paying a premium for rarity as well. Does it really matter if your brush is made from ‘High White Mountain’ hair? It might to you; I wouldn’t pay 500 bucks for a bottle of wine but there are plenty of people who do. On the other hand, buying a cheap low-end brush is a waste of money as it will quickly fall apart and the shave experience just won’t be that good.

Shaving brushes are a topic that provokes much discussion among shaving enthusiasts. With all these choices, the best shaving brush is truly the one you like best. Unfortunately, there is no way to know what brush style will work best for you without jumping in and gaining some experience. The brush being such a large part of the wet shaving experience, its importance can’t be understated. Lots of shavers have large collections of brushes. One brush works great for a workaday shave; the silvertip for Sunday morning when you can relax and enjoy a shave without watching the clock. A smaller brush for traveling is a common item in a wet shavers cabinet. It’s easy to amass lots of brushes if you’re not careful!

With the dizzying array of choices, there is one bright spot for new wetshavers looking for a first brush.

As it happens, there is a single brush commonly agreed upon as a good starter: the Crabtree and Evelyn Best Badger currently selling for $35 USD. This was my first brush and now serves as my travel brush. It’s a relatively small knot, middle-of-the-road shaving brush at a minimal price for its quality. You could easily stay with it as your only brush; or, it’s a great starting point to develop your preference for what you want in a next brush.